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Washington Post
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Washingtonian Magazine *** Very Best
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Zagat's Reviews ***
The meal starts with garlic toast and herbed cottage cheese, plus a small hors d'oeuvre, perhaps a nostalgic slice of quiche. Then comes the five-course fixed-price dinner. The Haeringer family's Alsatian roots show up in choucroutes, in mousse-topped salmon or trout, and on the wine list. The rest of France contributes scallops and shrimp drenched in garlic butter, sweetbreads and foie gras in a puff pastry shell, duck and rabbit and chateaubriand. Sometimes simplest is best, as in an appetizer of local ham topped with asparagus and Parmesan. Desserts are displayed at the entrance, glistening bavarians, Alsatian plum tart and kugelhopf.
But for all the vast choices and elaborate preparations, food is not the star. The service, the folksy dining rooms, the terrace with its masses of flowers are restorative. Where else can you sip champagne with raspberries, dine on a rack of lamb for two fully garnished, and watch deer leap across the horizon in the waning sun? "
Phyllis C. Richman 10/17/99
In a world of avant-garde eateries, this many-chambered farmhouse on a country road really feels French. As always, dinner--be it in the afternoon or evening--is a fixed-price, five-course affair, the cost determined by the entrée. Over the years, the menu has been tweaked here and there. Salmon en croûte for two has become red snapper for one and is even better than the original--snapper is a better foil to the rich crab, lobster, and puff pastry.
Puff pastry also figures in such sublime starters as the onion tart. And even though soufflés are the most popular dessert, it's the tarts--plum and apple--that capture the heart."
January 2000
2000
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